![]() Repair the disk by booting the from the Recovery HD.Start the computer in Safe Mode, then restart normally.Reset the System Management Controller (SMC).You should try each, one at a time, then test to see if the problem is fixed before going on to the next.īe sure to backup your files before proceeding if possible. Possible Fixes for El Capitan and Later Installations I noticed this slow the day I got the computer, that it was slow compared to the one it replaced. Safe boot on each takes 2-3 minutes on each one, no difference. ![]() I zapped VRAM or whatever it is, I cleared caches, I booted with external drive and ran Disk Utility First Aid. I have repeated this test 10 times, it varies boot to boot but not much. If I open Microsoft Word after reboot it (icon in the dock) bounces 100 times to open, then reopen (not rebooting) takes 13 bounces, then third open takes 2 bounces (Fusion Drive).įinally on the slow one, if I close Word and what say an hour, it takes 15 bounces to reopen, like it isn't in the Fusion drive anymore, that never happens with the fast one, no matter what I do once it is open it reopens in 2 bounces. I have both with SAME automatic log in items, the same.įast one boots up in 30-35 seconds, If I open Microsoft Word after reboot it (the icon in the dock) bounces 10 times to open, then reopen (not rebooting) takes 2 bounces (Fusion drive). Have run anti virus on both, anti malware on both.Ģ.9 Ghz, core i5, 8 GB memory 1600 Mhz DDR3ģ.1 GHz, core i5, 8 GB memory, 1887 MHz DDRE Both have 2017 same exact versions of MS Word. each one uses only 350 MB to the terabyte. Open “Settings” then choose “General” followed by “About”.One is very slow to boot and open apps, the other one is fineīoth have 1 TB, both have Fusion drive, both 21 inch, both have 8 GB memory total, 4 in each slot.Scroll all the way down and locate “Advertising”, from there tap on “Reset Advertising Identifier” and confirm the ID reset. Once confirmed, iOS will regenerate a new random blank ID. You can also go the extra mile and turn iOS ad tracking off completely while you’re at that settings screen, which functions like a “Do Not Track” feature and prevents any of anonymous data accumulation from happening. What that will do is completely deny the ability for anonymous data to be gathered about the device to serve more relevant ads, outside of web cookies. ![]() ![]() Reasons why you might want to reset the Advertising Identifier For example if you have every Angry Birds app installed on the device and do 100 web searches for Angry Birds a day, disabling ad tracking would prevent you from seeing ads relevant to that topic. Keeping in mind that all of the accumulated data is anonymous, there isn’t some universally important reason to reset the Ad ID and by no means should it be considered standard procedure.
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